Benson’s first fashion moment happens in the pilot episode of SVU, titled “Payback.” Here, we meet Benson, who is investigating a murder tied to a man who committed Serbian war crimes. It sets the tone for Benson’s character, who wears gray suit pants with a short-sleeve polo, which she later throws a matching gray blazer over. From episode one, we see how Benson grapples with empathizing with victims who sometimes are also the ones who commit crimes against their abusers and attackers. Juliet Polcsa, the Emmy-nominated costume designer of SVU who has been on the show since season 14 in 2013, considers Olivia to be “a very complex character.” Polcsa also notes, “Aside from her fierceness, she is critically empathetic.” Benson has to balance being authoritative and trustworthy. That mix of compassion and power-wielding has trickled into Benson’s wardrobe, which veers from approachable—maybe a suede coat and red shirt—to commanding in a full-on suit, sometimes with a T-shirt in lieu of a button-up. It is far from the meticulously and ostentatiously styled women we often see on TV, like Pope or Ally McBeal in her flirty miniskirts. Instead, Benson’s suits feel like something I could see an actual woman wearing, and even myself.
But despite all that polish, her suits have never received that much attention. Much has been discussed about Benson’s hair, which goes from a spiky pixie to a relaxed lob over the years. There have been Tumblrs and quizzes dedicated to the evolution of her hairstyles but not so much has been written about her no-nonsense-but-chic wardrobe. Maybe that’s because Benson makes those pantsuits look believable. It’s not a fashion statement, really, like fellow fictional crime fighter Olivia Pope’s slick, glamazon wardrobe or suits in saccharine #GirlBoss hues of red, green, blue, and orange that scream, “Look, I’m a woman and I wear suits.” Those suits feel freakishly pristine, unnaturally pressed, all too ready for a press junket or a photo op. Instead, Benson’s wardrobe of suits rotate in benign, neutral hues of slate grays, blacks, and dark blues. It feels realistic. Her suit probably gets a little dirty. Benson, after all, knows how to throw a punch.
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