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Chủ Nhật, 30 tháng 5, 2021

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African American hospital workers, including nurses, at a hospital in Nashville, July 1863 I thought it was really important to also enter the heart, when we think about the women who sent photographs to their husbands who were at war or battle so that they could remember the love that they left and the love that they hoped to return to. I think of Amelia Brogan, the fact that her photograph has survived and is up at Onondaga [a historical site in Syracuse, New York]. I saw that photograph in the ’80s, and I had not connected the story of her family and the Douglass relationship because I wasn’t doing research about that then. But I was fascinated because of her dress. There was a sense of pride in style and dress that was central to that experience, and I think that that’s the range of experiences that I wanted to bring—the sense of girl culture.

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Being a girl, I love women. I love the fact that our voices are silenced and loud at the same time. I can still remember things that my grandmother said to me that created a sense of protection. But I say the same thing with the soldiers, that the women who taught them—these are both Black and white women, white women who were the wives of some of the lieutenants or the leaders of the troops, and the white women who left the North, such as Laura Towne, who left with Charlotte Forten to teach the newly free children and the soldiers. But it was important for me to elevate and create a sonic experience [around] these women based on the fact that they were teaching the men how to write, send letters to their families, and receive their pay—so that they could sign their names, not just an X. At the same time, some were washerwomen, there to help the men survive. The role of sanitation and cleanliness and health is a quiet story. Most of the men died because of unsanitary conditions, and the role of women was to clean the wounds, clean the clothes. So the labor of women expanded from the intellect to the body.

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Thứ Sáu, 28 tháng 5, 2021

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Her final words of advice to anyone who manages to get their hands on a classic Erika Jayne piece? “Wear them in good health, enjoy them, because I certainly did,” she adds, before laughing once again. “I most definitely enjoyed these clothes.”

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That’s not to say, however, that she isn’t ready to pull out all the stops for the upcoming Housewives reunion, which this year will be taking place over Zoom. “Oh, of course we were able to pull it off,” she says. “My inspiration was Miami Vice, cocaine white.” “A little Michelle Pfeiffer Scarface moment?” I offer. “That’s right, honey, but I should add that we did it in our own way. I don’t want anybody to say I didn’t do it right. Bitch, I’m doing it for myself! Thank you.”

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In 2002, Cédric Klapisch directed The Spanish Apartment, a film about a French university student living in Barcelona, Spain, and sharing a commotion-filled flat with seven other international students. So, it’s not such a stretch that come lockdown, he was brought on to edit a video of the Opéra National de Paris’s ballet dancers (Margaux Gaudy-Talazac, Célia Drouy, Alice Catonnet, Camille Bon, and Mathieu Ganio) in their homes and apartments, sometimes crowded with family members and children who toddle into frame as their parents plié and leap about. Set to Prokofiev’s romantic score for Romeo and Juliet, the charmingly unchoreographed compilation is a sweet tribute to essential workers in France.

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One of the first pandemic-produced dances was released by the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater. In mid-March, barely a week into lockdown, the company released a snippet of the most famous piece in the Ailey repertoire. The dance, an excerpt from the “I Been Buked” section of Revelations, is performed by company members who filmed themselves alone in their homes or chosen place of quarantine. Taken together, the solos feel remarkably whole, and in the final moments the movements seem to be happening in unison. Making an appearance are dancers Solomon Dumas, Akua Noni Parker, Miranda Quinn, Danica Paulos, Hope Boykin, Jacquelin Harris, Yannick Lebrun, Constance Stamatiou, Brandon Michael Woolridge, and Patrick Coker.

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The virtual store can be accessed from the Très Bien site and runs during normal store hours. When connected, you can speak directly to a sales associate inside the shop. “It’s getting quite popular,” says Simon, with Hannes adding, “During opening hours, there’s always someone in line.” (In this case, “in line” means in a virtual waiting room.)

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Hop on the Zoom line and you’ll find a sales associate at the store’s large desk with a rack of clothing behind him. “Most people want to talk about corona,” says Niklas, the salesman on call when I cue up for the Zoom, comparing the conversations he typically has on Zoom to what people window-shopping or perusing the store IRL might say. “Other than that it’s—”

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I don’t condone the looting and violence that’s happening, but it seems to have gotten white people’s attention as the uprisings reach their neighborhoods. I hope every white person knows that whatever injustice or fear they might feel is only a shadow of what Black people have carried with them their entire lives. It’s why we march. It’s why we protest. It’s the message we’ve been trying to convey.

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I am no longer considering the comfort of white people at the expense of the critical mission of justice. I’m committing to being more courageous in speaking the unflinching truth about my own lived experiences, risking all of the consequences that may come, in an effort to feed the revolution. To my white friends and colleagues who are facing real discomfort for the first time, I say: Welcome, the water’s warm. I encourage you to embrace the unpleasantness that will come from hearing these jarring truths from Black people and, rather than get defensive, leverage your own privilege to defend their right to speak publicly without consequences.

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Benson’s first fashion moment happens in the pilot episode of SVU, titled “Payback.” Here, we meet Benson, who is investigating a murder tied to a man who committed Serbian war crimes. It sets the tone for Benson’s character, who wears gray suit pants with a short-sleeve polo, which she later throws a matching gray blazer over. From episode one, we see how Benson grapples with empathizing with victims who sometimes are also the ones who commit crimes against their abusers and attackers. Juliet Polcsa, the Emmy-nominated costume designer of SVU who has been on the show since season 14 in 2013, considers Olivia to be “a very complex character.” Polcsa also notes, “Aside from her fierceness, she is critically empathetic.” Benson has to balance being authoritative and trustworthy. That mix of compassion and power-wielding has trickled into Benson’s wardrobe, which veers from approachable—maybe a suede coat and red shirt—to commanding in a full-on suit, sometimes with a T-shirt in lieu of a button-up. It is far from the meticulously and ostentatiously styled women we often see on TV, like Pope or Ally McBeal in her flirty miniskirts. Instead, Benson’s suits feel like something I could see an actual woman wearing, and even myself.

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But despite all that polish, her suits have never received that much attention. Much has been discussed about Benson’s hair, which goes from a spiky pixie to a relaxed lob over the years. There have been Tumblrs and quizzes dedicated to the evolution of her hairstyles but not so much has been written about her no-nonsense-but-chic wardrobe. Maybe that’s because Benson makes those pantsuits look believable. It’s not a fashion statement, really, like fellow fictional crime fighter Olivia Pope’s slick, glamazon wardrobe or suits in saccharine #GirlBoss hues of red, green, blue, and orange that scream, “Look, I’m a woman and I wear suits.” Those suits feel freakishly pristine, unnaturally pressed, all too ready for a press junket or a photo op. Instead, Benson’s wardrobe of suits rotate in benign, neutral hues of slate grays, blacks, and dark blues. It feels realistic. Her suit probably gets a little dirty. Benson, after all, knows how to throw a punch.

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Simon continues: “We’ve kind of always been remote in the industry and we’ve always had customers spread out across the globe. I think it’s a way for anyone to visit our store that normally only people here [in Malmö] can visit.”

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On Saturday, Harry Potter author J.K. Rowling came under fire for tweets that many saw as transphobic. Rowling doubled down on her statements, writing on Twitter, “I know and love trans people, but erasing the concept of sex removes the ability of many to meaningfully discuss their lives.”

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As the child of two civil rights activists, Mallory has been going to protests for as long as she can remember. Even still, she feels that we’re living through an extraordinary time, calling it “one of the most courageous and bold moments in American history.” Mallory recognizes a new level of empowerment in today’s protestors. “We’re not asking and begging for respect, we’re demanding it.”

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Although the officers responsible for Floyd’s death were recently charged, this is still not enough. “Breonna Taylor still needs to be addressed as well as Ahmaud Arbery,” Mallory says. “There’s more work to be done and we cannot take our eyes off of the ball or we might not see convictions,” she says.

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This wasn’t exactly a surprise: My guiding principle has always been that I wanted to serve others. At the time, though, it wasn’t feasible for me to do that, so I worked at a few different things. I sold jewelry at Tiffany & Co., then got into the hospitality business for a while—I was a night manager of a small luxury hotel in midtown. But eventually I started volunteering in the mornings at a hospital in Brooklyn, working with people who were having congestive heart failure. I saw what the nurses were doing and got a lot of hands-on experience with patients. I started taking classes at a community college and did very well, and then found an accelerated program for people with bachelor’s degrees at the College of New Rochelle. It was a long drive from my home in Brooklyn, but it was well worth it.

In 2001, I was working as a trader on the American Stock Exchange when 9/11 happened and our firm fell apart. I decided to do some career testing, because the finance industry was in a shambles, and the number one thing it said I would be good at was nursing.

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Most of the nurses that I work with are in their 20s. They’re very smart and have endless energy and are rock-star nurses; they’re really, really good. Many of them have already had COVID-19 and have come back—usually about two weeks later. Some are out now, but most got it early on and they’re back and working. When they first heard about how old I was (I’m 49 now), that I’m overweight, that I have hypertension, and that I have an 8-year-old and a wife at home, they all kind of looked at me like, You’ve got to be crazy. One of them actually came to me and said, “I’ve got to be honest: If I were you, I would not have taken this.”

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As for my son—I can see that his ears are perked up when I tell Alice about the patients who’ve died on my shift. He’s proud of me, and at the 7 o’clock clap he blows this loud horn vigorously. But in terms of his trauma from my service, I think most of his trauma comes from not being able to see his friends.

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The day before the wedding, Raven surprised Miranda with a white Gucci jumpsuit, which she paired with a little $4 veil from Amazon. The morning of, Miranda did a favorite skin-care routine to prep. “She did everything she needed to do,” Raven says. “Her hair was fluffy and pretty and gorgeous…I’m super low maintenance when it’s me and not quote, unquote ‘Raven Symoné.’ I promised her that as long as I’m married to her, I would never get McDonald’s, but I had like two fish filet sandwiches and two fries and a big ole orange soda [that morning before the wedding].”

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“That was like her bachelor party moment—she took herself to McDonald’s for one last hurrah,” Miranda laughs. “It was pretty cute. Meanwhile, I was probably doing yoga.”

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Live From Indio: All the Best Coachella Street Style Shots, Way Up North, Way Out West, and The Best Festival Style From Glastonbury, all photographed by Alistair Guy, were first published on Vogue.com on April 12, 2015, August 11, 2014, and June 29, 2015, respectively.

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You’ve maybe heard the adage that people and their pets start to resemble each other over time? Well, in these crazy COVID-19 days, it seems that some people’s wardrobes and interiors are similarly morphing. Taking this matchy-matchy theme to wonderful extremes is Olivia Pudelko, who is making limited edition shoes out of rugs for those who really want to walk the walk.

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Comedies centered on young men rarely incorporate maternal characters in such an integral way. But Davidson and director Judd Apatow always saw the semiautobiographical comedy as much as a story about a mother deciding when it was okay to start living her own life again, as a story about a kid dealing with the loss of his father. Tomei is so charming in the role that she ends up stealing the show from its very own King. “I wanted her to do whatever she wanted because she’s amazing and brings so much to the table,” Davidson shared via email. “She was our first and only choice, so thank God she said yes.”

Pete Davidson and Marisa Tomei in The King of Staten Island. Tomei entered the project with her own impressions of the story and its attention-grabbing star. “I don’t think anyone could escape ‘big dick energy,’” she says referring to the elusive, internet-coined term Davidson best embodies. “That was definitely kind of a thing, right?” The actor also knew Davidson from SNL as well as his off-screen exploits chronicled by TMZ. But she met a much more “vulnerable” and “big-hearted” individual during the two-week rehearsal period. “He’s not a morning person, so he was just monosyllabic and didn’t wanna speak to anybody, which I respect,” she laughs. “I’m not a morning person either, so we just hung out in our half-grumpy, half-sleepy ways and it just developed into this easy thing.”

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At present, the steps of Lincoln Center—home to the New York City Ballet and American Ballet Theatre—lead up to a plaza blocked off by steel police barricades. Affixed to the fence are flimsy laminated notices announcing, “We’ll be back shortly after a short intermission.” It’s a scene that would suggest the ballet world has temporarily stopped spinning, but that couldn’t be further from the case.

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Within weeks of their respective cities’ lockdowns, dance companies around the world tinkered and toiled to adapt their analogue art for the digital sphere. One of the first to get techy was the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater; a piece from their most celebrated work, 1960s Revelations, was performed virtually for the first time in early March and distributed via Instagram. Soon after, came many more pandemic-era productions, some pieces scrappily choreographed and performed on Zoom, and others as polished as an in-theater show.

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Recapping, I’d point towards London’s designers of color, to Bianca Saunders, discussing her sensitive approach to masculinity with Bruce Pask of Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, and to Nicholas Daley’s film of his psychedelic jazz performance of a show, The Abstract Truth, which he showed in January. Priya Ahluwalia launched her book, Jalebi, with a virtual reality exhibition about Britain’s first Punjabi community in Southall in West London, inspired by her grandmother’s memories and dedicated “to representing the beauty of diversity and how immigration enriches lives.” The Indian designer Kaushik Velendra produced a video of himself hand-steaming the glamorously original molded body pieces for men which he began developing at Central Saint Martins. And Osman Yousefzada aired the devastating film Her Dreams are Bigger, in which he recorded the words of Bangladeshi women garment workers as they imagined the characters of the white women who buy the clothes they make.

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How it came out, in its free-range, open-access variety, was more like a cross between an experimental arts festival and an online convention of opinion. The conclusion I take to heart is that it was a platform for the very thing that I love best about fashion, the thing which the catwalk system blocks: hearing people talk directly and intimately about the meaning of their work, and being able to follow them into their worlds.

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As an Italian American Brooklynite raised by an English teacher mother, Tomei’s version of growing up in New York looked very different from Davidson’s. She started working at 19 when she booked her first acting gig through a newspaper ad. Rising to prominence as Lisa Bonet’s roommate on the hit sitcom A Different World, Tomei spent her 20s in the East Village during the grit-and-glitter late ’80s. Her first—and to this day, favorite—apartment on Avenue B overlooked Tompkins Square Park.
Apatow has always enjoyed bridging the gap between adolescent raunch and grown-up emotion in his work, and The King of Staten Island is no exception, combining a running joke featuring grotesque stick-and-poke tattoos with quieter moments like Margie’s teary-eyed goodbye to her college-bound daughter. “Comedy loosens you up for the other feelings, and then these other feelings will occasionally let you get a belly laugh in,” says Tomei. “Watching Pete go through his journey allows us to find ourselves and relate to that experience.”
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Professor Heather D. Russell, a scholar of literature at Florida International University, put it this way: “For many watching the murder of George Floyd on TV was a visceral experience. People felt it in their gut. This moment has made it much more difficult for white Americans to distance themselves from racism or claim ignorance or turn a blind eye. Many white people are trying to make sense of how this happened. What do I do about the guilt I feel? What is the difference between denouncing racism and being an anti-racist?”

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Bhojwani adds that their “110% sustainable” promise isn’t just marketing: “We aren’t just being sustainable, we’re also giving back to the planet,” she says. “We calculated every environmental impact in our process and published the Life Cycle Assessment on our website, and it helped us come up with meaningful carbon offsets.” So far, they’ve restored 470,000 gallons of fresh water in American rivers and planted more than 2,000 trees.

Clearly the question is no longer whether it’s “possible” to make a luxurious, vegan, and environmentally-conscious shoe; it’s if the rest of the fashion industry will get on board. “I think it’s about awareness and education right now,” Bhojwani says. “But once companies and consumers realize they don’t have to compromise quality [and design] to do the right thing, there will be growth.”

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In addition, the CSSC created a program called Mask Check, which helped provide much-needed PPE to local shelters and jails in the New York area. Shayna Feuer, who is currently getting her masters degree in nursing, is heading up this arm of the CSSC. Through virtual sewing groups, Feuer and her team of around 14 students make and distribute the masks themselves, mainly to shelters and prisons in and around the Washington Heights area, where Columbia is located. And while they were most recently focused on sewing masks that were permissible by the jails (there are strict rules about fabric, elastic ties, and colors for inmate masks), Feuer and the Mask Check team have since shifted focus.

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On Monday, they focused their efforts on supporting the protestors advocating for systemic change in the wake of George Floyd’s murder by four Minneapolis police officers. “As allies and public health workers, we want to stand in solidarity with the Black Lives Matter movement and contribute to safe protesting,” Feuer says, adding: “Mask Check has fully shifted our focus to collecting and donating PPE to the protestors.” Feuer says that she and her team realized there was a huge need for PPE for protestors in New York, as Covid-19 is still a very present and real threat—especially in the black community, which it has affected disproportionately.

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Their friend Erica Summers officiated the vows. A group of six friends witnessed the vows and partook in the feast Allen had prepared: oysters, lobster pasta, and a triple-berry cake from Sweet Lady Jane.

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The couple on their wedding day. For all of her pre-ceremony prep, Miranda was still running a few minutes late. “That’s the bride’s prerogative,” Raven, who wore Goldspun by Mad Maxx, Gucci shoes, and her hair in rainbow braids, says. “So I’m sitting there just tapping my fingers ready to go, and then we’re driving [to the ceremony], nervous as hell. We planned our music obviously, so while everyone was waiting for us, super calm, listening to Frank Sinatra’s ‘You Changed My Life,’ we’re in the car listening to Kendrick Lamar’s ‘King Kunta’ and roll up hella ready for the cause, ready for the ‘clurb,’ and scared everybody, and that kind of broke the ice, and we could move on about our day.”

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Maybe the designer/photographer mashup is the 2020s answer to the model/DJ multi-hyphenates of the 2010s? Pierpaolo Piccioli did something similar for Valentino’s resort lookbook. Who’s next?

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Fashion’s silence may have something to do with the systemic racial inequalities it has yet to reckon with. After 13 years in the business, Smalls has seen the discrimination that happens first-hand. Though she’s now one of modeling’s top stars, she spent years having to convince magazines that she could carry the coveted solo stories that elevate a model to household name status. “I was fighting tooth and nail,” she says of her beginnings in the early aughts. “I would see my contemporaries getting those jobs left and right, but the few times I was able to, it was a battle. On the outside, it may have looked easy, but there were a lot of conversations convincing people to give me those opportunities. I had to [prove] that I can hold a story on my own and not share a page.” The reluctance of brands to book models of color for fear of alienating white consumers served as an additional hurdle. “I’ve been up for so many jobs where I was turned down because the client said we’re not ready to go in that direction,” says Smalls. “Which means they’re not ready to shoot a black girl. I’ve heard those conversations and seen the emails from companies saying, “Yeah, we don’t need any more black girls; that position has been filled’.”

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